Last day in Porto

John on the cable car

On the south bank of the Douro River all the wine cellars of the regions port wine growers are located, they call them wine caves here. Anyway, we finally got around to visiting them today.

We did a tour of the cellars, learnt all about the different types of port, and eventually got to taste some white and some ruby ports. Now we have some little samples to try out on our own time too!

We happened to then bump into a couple from Adelaide that we had met on the UK walk, so had a lovely lunch by the river in the sun.

A ride on the cable car heading back to our hotel, and all up a great last day in Porto.

We have found that as long as you try places that are not total tourist traps, the food can be very tasty and quite different. They know how to cook fish in this town!

Porto

Shopping in Porto

The photo shows the usual Sunday markets by the river at Porto. Very much the tourist trap for trinkets and silly souvenirs.

We spent a great day doing the tourist thing around Porto, including an hours boat ride up and down the river, visits to monasteries and the old town.

We have decided to forego the walk to Santiago, which is a shame. But my knees are just not up to a second long walk so soon after the recent walk.

We are planning to still head to Santiago (by train or bus) stay a few days and then cruise around the north coast of Spain for a while, checking out the beach resorts and the little fishing villages.

Porto

Sao Jorge Castle

Friday - Lisbon
Struggled out of our sick-beds determined not to waste our last day in Lisbon. Hopefully the dreadful bug will go away soon, either that or the city will soon run out of tissues.

The Lisbon metro is wonderful and cheap, less than 4€ for an all-day, all transport pass.

So down town to Alfama, the Se cathedral and then on to the castle.

Wandering around the ruins of the old castle and along the battlements was very enjoyable, with great views
over the whole city. There was a sort of market of local arts & crafts in the grounds which was fun, always good to find a way to spend the euros!

Getting a bit lost in the Alfama area was easy, it is a very old part of the city with very narrow laneways that basically all look the same, it took us quite a while to find our way back to the main part of the city. Locals have been very friendly and helpful wherever we have been.

Saturday
An easy and cheap (21€ per person) train trip to Porto and then another quick metro trip to our hotel.

A lovely dinner at our hotel and now busy planning tomorrows excursions to get the most from our few days here at Porto.

We are hoping to get a first hand taste of some of the regions famous wines.

A day in Lisbon

The Tower of Belem

Well, believe it or not we did a bus tour today. We took the opportunity to take a tour to see some of the outlying sites of interest here in Lisbon.

It gave us a chance to see some things we might not have seen otherwise. Lisbon is a large city with quite a history, great little bars and cafes, and lots of museums.

We are both fighting a "dreaded lurgy" of a cold germ, but we are "soldiering on " trying to see as much as we can.

We have left the castle and the cathedral for tomorrow, before heading to Porto by train on Sat.

Lisboa

Lisbon

Tuesday
Up at 0630, left hotel at 0730. Walked a mile with backpacks to York railway station. Waited. Train to Manchester airport. Waited. Watched news of airports closing due to Icelandic volcanic ash cloud.

Flight to Heathrow, much relief as we are further from ash cloud. Waited. Flight to Lisbon. Reached hotel at 2310. Sleep.

Wednesday
First day in Lisbon. 29 degrees! Warm weather at last. Lots of sight-seeing. Lovely city.

I'm still trying to shake off a bad cough while Gen's knees didn't like the backpack. A pair of old crocks.

York - Last Day

Ye Olde English Pub

A cold, wet and windy day in York. Checked out the enormous York Minster and a little bit of sight-seeing.

Escaped the rain in a cute pub, tourism is such hard work!

Tomorrow we fly to hot and sunny Lisbon, exploding Icelandic volcanoes permitting.

More York

Love those old buildings.

Spent a chill, windy and occasionally damp day sightseeing in York.

City of York

Micklegate

We are now in York for a few days. We happened to arrive on the day of the annual York races, so the city is packed with very fancily dressed folk, some the worse for a bit of drink! Just like Melb cup day.

York has an historic old town area, and is one of the few places in England that has much of the old city walls. Micklegate is one of the old gateways into the old town.

A chance for us to visit old medieval and roman ruins, which we love doing.

My feet are now beginning to feel normal again, I was bit footsore at the end of the walk. We managed to catch up with a number of our fellow walkers who finished the day after us. It was a great feeling to share our accomplishment with others, everybody feeling very elated at finally finishing.

Relaxing in Robin Hood's Bay

End of C2C

Have now organized our next week of travel. Saturday we go to ancient York and then on Tuesday we fly to Lisbon.

Today was a relaxing day, visiting Whitby and it's 1000 year old abbey (ruins).

And wandered through the old alleyways and shops before returning to Robin Hood's Bay to catch up with other walkers.

Robin Hood's Bay

Robin Hood's Bay

We're here!!!

Glaisdale

More Moors

A day of fairly even flat walking today, across Farndale and Glaisdale Moors, amongst others.

We saw more local wildlife (grouse, curlews, and deer) but other than that no much else to the day.

But we do see spectacular views of the dales and from time to time see glimpses of the North Sea, our goal.

Tomorrow we look forward to a ride on a steam train (we hope).

Blakey Ridge, Tuesday May 17

The Moors

After a wonderful night at Urra we were back on the moors today. After a short climb we walked along a disused railway for the day. Spotted more wild pheasants and red grouse.

Last night we were the only guests in the B&B at Urra. Our hosts were wonderful, giving us a superb three course home-cooked meal, sherry before dinner, a potted history of the area and fascinating conservation, great people.

Tonight we are in the Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge, fourth highest pub in England, a lone building high on the moors. It's booked out, mostly with walkers.

Urra

The fields we crossed yesterday.

Back into the hills and moors today, a dry but very windy day. Very excited as we can now see glimpses of the North Sea from the hilltops, still three more days of walking to go though.

More steep climbing and descending, which is hard on the legs. We are on the lookout for Heathcliffe and Kathy.

The Coast to Coast path joined the Cleveland Way path just outside Ingleby Cross and the two will remain together for a while.

Adding to our tally of interesting animals sighted along the way (red squirrel, deer, wild pheasants), yesterday we saw several magnificent horses. These were all similar and we believe them to be Cleveland Bay horses.

Ingleby Cross

The Blue Bell Inn

Spending a quiet Sunday evening in the local pub after walking from Danby Wiske.

It drizzles almost all day but not too cold. More broad acre farms today, little in the way of interesting scenery or history.

Tomorrow looks to be more interesting as we head into the "tops", the hills that lead to the North Yorks Moors.

We passed through Herriott's "All creatures great and small" country and are about to enter "Heartbeat" country. Our walk ends in the setting for part of Bram Stoker's "Dracula", in and around Whitby.

Danby Wiske

Bolton-on-Swale Church

Hallelujah! Sunshine today, only a couple of brief rain showers late in the walk. Hardly had to wear the goretex gear. The landscape has altered since Richmond. We are now surrounded by broad-acres farms with few villages or features. The dry-stone walls have been replaced by extensive hedgerows.

Many of our fellow travelers are now moving at a different pace, some taking rest days in Richmond while others zoom across the plains. We continue our modest plod.

Richmond

Richmond, Friday May 13

Left Reeth at 7:30 am without breakfast, worst accommodation of the trip and not prepared to eat the breakfast even though it was already paid for.

Found a lovely brunch at a remote farm teahouse, fabulous views from a warm, cosy conservatory.

Our journey continued across rolling fields, thru small woods and along dry stone walls. Beautiful scenery not quite matched by the squally weather.

Looked at Richmond Castle later in the day and then dinner at a local French restaurant. Now to sleep.

Reeth

Reeth Village

We arrived here in sunny skies after a day's walking in very chilly showery weather.

Walking alongside the River Swale down thru the Swaledale, said to be the prettiest example of the Yorkshire dales.

We are now resting our weary feet in the Kings Arms in Reeth.

The views of the moors and the dales have been spectacular, lovely green farmlands, drystone walls, blackface sheepies everywhere, so very different to Aust.

Looking forward to visiting Richmond castle tomorrow.

Tarn Hill Inn

The Pennines

Today is day to be marked for three reasons.

We crossed the Pennine range, one of the photos shows the "nine standards rigg" on the top of the range. These are 9 pillars built of dry stones (no mortar), what they are for is anybody's guess.

We are now passed the official halfway point at Keld.

And lastly we are staying tonight in Britain's highest pub, the Tarn Hill Inn. The view here is of rather bleak looking treeless rolling hills. (moors)

The walk today has been adventurous, up over the Pennines in the rain & chilly wind, then across moors with huge peat bogs we had to wend our way around without losing the path.

A long day at about 24 kms, now feeling relaxed and ready for a soothing ale or two.

Kirkby Stephen, Tuesday May 10

Smardale Bridge

A wet and windy day across the moors and fells of Yorkshire. Our route takes us around the milder dales and onto the high fells. The going is easier than the Lakes District while navigation is more difficult.

Tomorrow we tackle the Pennines to reach the halfway point of our walk. The Pennines pose a challenge with their peat bogs and the currently dodgy weather. We are hoping for sunshine but preparing for rain.

Orton, Monday

Pretty bridge outside Bampton Grange.

After a wonderful night at Bampton Grange (best room, food and bar so far!) we had our best days walking so far.

We are finally settling into a good rhythm and covering the distances more easily. It helps a lot that we are now walking instead of climbing!

The countryside is very pretty with lots of new-born lambs wobbling about. Yesterday's highlight for me was a superb vaulted bridge on the Carlisle to Settle railway, today it was walking across the moors on a Roman road (well, the remains of one.)

Bampton Grange

The Crown and Mitre

To avoid a 700 metre climb up Kidsty Pike we bussed to Penrith and then walked about 10-12 kms to tonights stopping point.

A wet & stormy start, walking in the rain no matter how well equipped is not real fun. Weather cleared as afternoon wore on. We move into Yorkshire moors over next days, still hilly but not as severe countryside.

Patterdale, Friday 7th May

White Lion Hotel

We're staying in a nice B&B one hundred metres up the road but now spending a damp afternoon in the pub.

Used today as a rest day and did a bit of bus tourism. Went down to Windermere to see the famous lake and visit the town. Very heavy car traffic and flocks of tourists. Absolutely fabulous scenery enjoyed from the bus.

Now in Patterdale just south (I think) of Ullswater and Penrith. This is our last day in the Lakes District and Cumbria. Tomorrow it's Yorkshire and the Pennines.

Grasmere

Moss Grove Eco Hotel, Grasmere

A third day of Fell walking, that should be Fell Climbing. Very severe ascents and descents on rocky, muddy mountain goat tracks. The severity of the climbs has been something of a trial.

Last nights heavy rain continued this morning, turning to impenetrable mists at the peaks. We gathered with a large group to stumble along until the path was found. Later, met a couple who had wandered in the mists for two hours before finding a way down.

The sun came out once we reached Grasmere, the biggest town so far on the walk. A real tourist hub, all facilities but priced to match.

Stonethwaite

Stonethwaite - view from our window.

Another very hard day, longish distance but very, very steep and rocky. Walked the length of Ennerdale Water (the easy bit) and then along seemingly interminable forestry tracks before a stunning, near vertical, climb up and over the fells.

Meeting lots of like-minded folk who are walking coast to coast, including a few more Aussies.

Fabulous dinner at the local pub (only one in village). Early night planned for tonight.

Ennerdale

The Stork Hotel

A loverly sunny day for day one of our walk. We walked about 24 kms today from St Bees to Ennerdale. A tough walk along coastal cliffs then inland over some very high hills.

Now looking forward to lamb chops for dinner at the Stork.

St Bees

St Bega

Brrrp....Brrrp....Brrrp Eventually the train started and we didn't have to push. A delightful trip along the Irish Sea coastline to St Bees.

We travelled from the Eden Valley (Carlisle is on the banks of the Eden River) to a town named after St Bega. Which is odd considering our home is in Eden in the Bega Valley.

The sunshine continues and we enjoyed walking around St Bees today and, following tradition, dipped our boots in the Irish Sea. Tomorrow we start walking in earnest.

In search of the iconic English pub

The cosy corner bar, the local strong beers, the traditional bar snacks (toasties). We found one yesterday but these pubs seem to be disappearing in England.

So many pubs have been taken over by franchise kitchens selling pricy rubbish food, with huge screens for sport, appealing to the young I suppose.
And so the search begins........

Historic Carlisle

Yet another bright, sunny, warm but windy day. We've been told that this continues three weeks of dry weather - in England in spring! Climate change denying people please note.

Today we rejoined English Heritage and visited Carlisle's historic castle, historic cathedral, historic houses and historic pubs. Great fun!

Hobgoblin red ale for lunch (with an omelette) and venison burger for dinner. Must start walking soon!

Arrived in Carlisle

A glorious sunny warm day, a 3 hour train and bus trip, we are now in historic Carlisle. Photo shows main square, lots of historic bldgs here, and close to Hadrians wall. Both still tired, getting over long flight I think. We plan exploring the castle tomorrow.

Canals

Manchester has many canals and canal boats - very picturesque. Walked all over town to see the sites, including the Ryland library, the Museum of Science and Technology, a war museum and (from a distance) Old Trafford stadium.